12 Volt Toilet Tank Refiller
(C) G. Forrest Cook November 24, 2002
The 12V pump on the side of the cistern
The circuit in action
The hand-wired circuit board
The schematic
Introduction
A flushing toilet is something that most city dwellers take for granted,
but it can be a luxury for those who live away from utility water and electricity.
This circuit provides on-off pump switching for a small 12 Volt pump that
is used to fill a toilet tank from an external rain water collection cistern.
The 12 Volt power comes from a small solar power system. The cistern is
located at ground level, so the pump is required to move the water up to
the toilet tank.
Specifications
Nominal operating voltage: 12V
Idle current: < 1 ma
Pump Current: < 5A
Theory
The Panasonic hall effect sensor is the heart of the system. The hall effect
sensor's output pulls to ground when in the presence of a relatively strong
magnetic field. When the magnet is pulled away from the hall effect sensor,
the output goes high via the 10K pull up resistor. This turns on the IRFZ34N
MOSFET transistor, which pulls the negative lead of the 12V pump to ground,
turning on the pump. The LED is also turned on.
The 1N4004 diode snubs out potential spikes from the motor, and the
1000uF capacitor across the motor eliminates motor brush noise from the
DC wiring. The 100uF capacitor filters noise from the 12V power source.
As with all electrical circuitry, it is important to have a fuse and a
switch in series with the power source, that is not shown in the schematic.
Careful observers will observe a second diode on the board, it is a
crowbar diode who's job is to blow the fuse if the power is ever connected
with reverse polarity. The crowbar diode is not shown in the schematic.
This circuit will work with most momentary action (non-latching) hall
effect sensors, you may want to experiment with the sensor and magnet to
find the most sensitive orientation for both parts.
Construction
The circuit board is hand wired on a piece of prototype PC board. The board
is connected to the side of the toilet tank with a piece of bent plumbing
strap metal. The magnet is connected to the toilet tank float with duct
tape, a better magnet mount could certainly be fashioned. Sometimes it
is necessary to cheat when working in the field. If the magnet has a gap
around the side, fill it with silicone sealant.
Hind sight is 20-20, it would be best to mount all of the circuitry
in a dry area outside of the toilet tank. The hall effect sensor and magnet
are the only components that need to be near the water. The sensor could
be soldered to the end of a fairly short three conductor wire and coated
with epoxy or silicone sealant for water proofing. A little water does
not harm the circuit, but it may cause it to get stuck in the "on" mode
until it dries out.
The pump inlet is connected to a valve and reducer assembly at the bottom
of the cistern tank. The pump outlet travels through a short section of
conduit, into the building, and into the toilet tank via a piece of bent
copper tubing. The copper tubing output should be above the highest water
level to prevent back-siphoning.
The pump output tube and wiring were built with connectors so that the
pump could be removed when we are away from the building. A more permanent
version could be made by mounting the pump in a metal box on the side of
the building.
Alignment
Bend the metal strap that holds the PC board, so that the hall effect sensor
is directly above the magnet. Adjust the height of the PC board so that
the circuit shuts off at the desired water level.
Use
Flush the toilet, the red LED will light up, and the pump will move water
into the toilet tank. As soon as the water level reaches the top, the pump
will shut off. Just like in the city. If you want to use this device in
an area where the temperature gets below freezing, the water supply, pump,
and water tubing will need to be mounted in an area that does not freeze,
such as underground.